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India - Harley Weir, Dazed & Confused

MALIK

India - Harley Weir, Dazed & Confused

India - Harley Weir, Dazed & Confused

Photographer Harley Weir, Styling Tom Guinness (2016) The Love. Dazed and Confused

This collection considers Malik Ambar’s passage, from a destitute in Ethiopia, to a ruler in Western India. Malik expands the diasporic image from one of movement to one of creation. James Baldwin becomes a central parallel to contemplate, in his unusualness. The black male here performs as an image of transcendence that bridges divides of status and origin, to create a new real. Malik becomes a reflection on the unexpected - an expression of the cross-cultural resonance that characterises the African diaspora across the Indian Ocean and further.

A found quality in terry cloth shirts, the battered silk, the wide linen trousers. Tones of dusky cream and rust. The street immediacy of market clothing in faded checks. Indigo topstitched denim disrupts the regal elegance of nehru collars and loose fitting linen shirts. Authority asserted in double-breasted blazers and deeply pleated utility shorts. Effeminate flourishes in knotted silk scarves, crushed pearl velvet and Wales Bonner’s signature embroidery created with Swarovski crystal and earthy shell. The collection forms a study of beauty, the postures of royalty, the essentialism of black dress - black excellence re-defined in ebony leather.

References


Baldwin, James. (2001) Another Country. New York: Penguin Books
Baldwin, James. (1963) The Fire Next Time. New York: The Digital Press
Baldwin, James. (1956) Giovanni’s Room. New York: The Digital Press
Baldwin, James (1963) Go Tell It On The Mountain. New York: The Digital Press
Baldwin, James, and Sol Stein. (2004) Native Sons. New York: One World
Ellison, Ralph. (1995) Invisible Man. New York: Vintage International
Gates, Henry Louis. (1987) Figures In Black. New York: Oxford University Press
Graham, A.D, and Peter H Beard. (1973) Eyelids of Morning. Greenwich, Conn: New York Graphic Society
Hawley, John C. (2008) India in Africa, Africa In India. Bloomington: Indiana University Press
Hemphill, Essex. (1991) Brother To Brother. Boston: Alyson Publications
Larson, Pier Martin. (2009) Ocean Of Letters. Cambridge, Uk: Cambridge University Press
McKay, Claude. (1953) Selected Poems Of Claude McKay. New York: Bookman Associates
Moten, Fred. (2014) The Feel Trio. Arizona: Machine Editions
Ogumefu, M. I. (1984) Yorube Legends. New York: AMS Press
Reed, Ishmael. (1972) Mumbo Jumbo. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday
Pochivalov, Leonid. (1988) Africa. Moscow: Editorial Raduga
Wright, Richard. (1940) Native Son. New York: Harper & Bros
Tandoh, Ike. (date unknown) Mama Don’t Cry. Kumasi: Ghana
Tay, Evelyn. (date unknown) Some Love are Dangerous Think Twice. Kumasi: Ghana
Toomer, Jean. (1975) Cane. New York: Liveright
Van Vechten, Carl. (1926) Nigger Heaven. New York: Knopf

Grace Wales Bonner by Angelo Pennetta for The Gentlewoman

Informed by broad research that encompasses critical theory, composition, literature, and historical sources, WALES BONNER explores a distinctive notion of luxury via a hybrid of European and African approaches. Grace Wales Bonner graduated from Central St. Martins in 2014. The following year Wales Bonner was awarded Emerging Menswear Designer’ at the British Fashion Awards, and shortly after that in 2016 she received the LVMH Young Designer Prize.

Obtaining wide recognition, Wales Bonner has presented at the Serpentine Gallery and the Victoria and Albert Museum, whilst also lecturing at Parsons in New York. Wales Bonner international stockists include Dover Street Market, Selfridges, 10 Corso Como, and Joyce.

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